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The several styles of male shoes

The several styles of male shoes

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Shoes are part of history! Always used as protection to the feet, they nowadays are seen more as a fashion statement than anything else. Combining them with belts is essential when it comes to the male dress code, but more importantly, each shoe should be worn according to occasion.

The idea of having standard shoe sizes came from King Edward I, who also decreed in 1305 that three grains of barley aligned should be considered the measure of an inch. (For example: a shoe size 37 referred to 37 grains of barley and so on.) That was when shoemakers began manufacturing them in standard sizes for the first time in Europe, based on those dry grains of barley. Nowadays some things are changed and there are different measures according to the countries the shoes are made in. Some can even differ in width.

Men´s shoes evolve more slowly than female´s and some of the most famous styles were first produced in the 17th Century. Technology and time have made shoes more comfortable and light. Composed by several parts, the best types are made manually or with the help of industrial or personalized machines.

Buttress, finishing insole, lining, tongue, laces and eyelets are the main parts of a shoe – and those never change. So let´s see the styles which are more common among men nowadays. I bet you have some of those in your place!


Oxford
The first shoes tied with shoelaces came from England in 1640 and became popular among Oxford University students – therefore its name.

This model has the laces holes made directly into its body. If the rows aren´t parallel it means your foot´s too high for it – size may not be the right one for you, which means chances of hurting your feet are quite high. With many variations, they are the most formal ones and ideal to be worn in wedding ceremonies and formal parties.


Derby
Derby model took after Oxford and they´re very much alike. The difference is in the position of the holes – situated on the side flaps sewn on the body of the shoe. This makes the style more comfortable and adaptable even to the higher feet.

It has been first produced in the 19th Century and became very popular right away. Depending on its model, it can even be used with jeans and a T-shirt. Less formal and more versatile, Derby shoes go well with blazer and dispense the use of a tie.


Monk
These were based on the shoes the monks – obviously – used to wear since the 15th Century. Its contemporary version was produced in 1930 and Monk shoes are least formal than the Oxford styles, therefore more formal than Derby´s.

This one is easily recognized for the lack of laces, which are replaced by a metal buckle on the side. It is a great option for suits and the combination of tailored pants and shirt.


Moccasin
The Algonquian Indians of the US border to Canada named the moccasin shoes - hand-stitched leather squares with dots around the instep and on the toes. The more structured ones are called loafers. In the 60s, Gucci launched a model with a metal buckle and red and green bands, which have been copied worldwide.

Moccasin is casual and sportive and should be worn with shorts and light trousers, preferably without socks. The ones called Dockside (or boat shoes) are a variation of the moccasins, mainly used by sailors. It has won the streets in the 80s.

There is still one version called driver, made specially for driving (with rubber soles for a better grip)  - which has become a classic. Its soles flexibility prevents the shoe from slipping when in contact with the pedals.


Loafer
Americans have created the weejuns inspired in a model worn by the Norwegian in the 1930s – one of the most common loafer styles. The differential is a leather band in diamond shape that covers the instep. The loafer became popular among American college students.

Used mainly with shorts in Europe and US, in Brazil it is a least common combination. This is a casual style shoe which goes with jeans or serge and a polo shirt.


Side Gore
Derived from the loafer, side gore is a very successful style. Its main characteristic are the wide elastic bands on the sides which dispenses the use of buckles, velcro, zippers or laces.

There are several variations of this model, from the most urban ones to the country styles (in which the elastic band is covered by a kind of leather fillet). Depending on the type, such as the leather brown or black, the side gores can be worn with jeans and even more formally.


Sneakers
Polemic, sneakers came along with Casual Friday – movement adopted by some companies in which the team is allowed to go to work dressing more casually on Fridays. This style isn´t as sportive, nor as casual as a regular shoe. They were inspired on the traditional Oxfords and have become a success among men.




Mariana Goulart
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